Waking early as Newcastle is not my town, like most places if I gave it time I could find some nice spots. Anyway I way I arrive in Sydney in and It’s scorcher.
MY next trick is to ever find work of go travelling some more.
Waking early, as I normal do, I decided to go for a walk. The seafront is pretty but barren; with the main sights to see are Nobby’s lighthouse
and Nobby’s beach. So I decide to grab a paper and settling in for a quite one.
In the afternoon I watch ‘28 days’ which has only just come out here but has been out in the UK for about a year; good film. Newcastle is the first industrial town that I've been to in Australia, and from the tankers (25) waiting out side it's definitely has a large port. One thing to Newcastle is the surfing; thought the cold is putting a stop to that; the other is the Hunter River that flows out of Newcastle. If you follow the Hunter up stream, you’ll come to the Hunter valley centre of Australian making; which is a trip I will do later.
Again, I decide that this is not the place for me, in that it's like Coffs with out the diving, but the town is closer and this affords me time to watch a movie before I leave on the bus. 'Pirates of the Caribbean' with Johnny Depp who's brilliant as a Keith Richard pirate. Leaving on the bus I feel that in retrospectively I probably should stayed at Bellingen, however I know that it more of a chill out point and I needed to get moving down the coast.
It's dark by the time I'm in New Castle and all I can think of is sleep. The YHA here I lovely, especially the ballroom complete with leather sofas, open fires and chandelier; it's just a shame the receptionist was a miserable git.
The train leaves a 12:30 giving me plenty of time to wander round the harbour. Coffs isn’t a bad destination, if you’re into extreme sports; of which is there is plenty of choices. However, it’s not my choice right now so I’ve got nothing really to do in this area plus it’s cold. The only exception to this is the solitary island marine park, which has excellent diving as both tropical and temperate waters mix to give a huge range of sealife.
The train journey is more comfortable that the coach but at time you don't get to see and much, especially when you're travelling though hilly countryside. After a couple of hours I arrive in Port Macquarie in time to do some laundry; clean clothes are some of the simple pleasures you don't always have access to. After that, It's beer and off to bed.
Leaving Bryon I feel the best part of my journey is behind me, however I needed to make progress to get back to Sydney before my ticked runs out. Travelling down the pacific highway the scenery is that of rolling hills and at it’s best when bathed in sunlight; however as I progress south and deeper into NSW the weather gradually worsens until darkness finally draws its veil.
Arriving in Coffs at 9o/k I immediately head to the hostel, located 1000 meter from the town centre and a mile from the Harbour. This is definitely not the place for a long stay, so I set about organising my tickout of here.
This is complicated by the lack of on the buses out, however there is a train to Port Macquarie from where I can pick up the bass again. Now the choice a train is forced which is ironic given that would have been my first choice transport.
My final dive in Bryon and another 7:00 start, again this was round Code Hole, but the second time always give you a detailed look. Approaching the Hole, you at first see only a void of darkness as you drop further your eyes adapt to the darkness and you notice the opening at the other end. The passage is only 3-4 meters and not a scratch on fish rock caves; an 80 meters lava tube.
All in all a lovely dive, with the normal Wobbegongs, Bulleye, turles and even Porcupine fish. Again I was getting colder towards the end, however not as dramatic as my previous dive. Also saw some impressive urchins, and not just the Brittle urchins.
After my dive I chilled, watched League of Extraordinary Gentlemen, poor but a good waste of time.
Dive 23: Julian Rocks (Cod Hole) Bryon Bay, NSW.
In 200 Bar 7:25
Out 70 Bar 8:59
21 meters
42 Bottom Time
Visibility 5-9
Temp 19c
Weights 6*1.5
Better dive as breathing and swimming more controlled, thought you can always do better. Plenty of aquabatics, like vertical descents; however at several points I feels the air going slightly bad, ok but not nice. The swim thought code hole, easy; however must remember to first dump more air from my BCD.
I'll be doing two dives today off the cod hole, one 7:00 the other at 11:30. The location if Julian rocks, which can easily be seen off main beach, Bryon bay. Julian rocks are (apparently) in the top ten of world dive sites and top 5 of Australian sites. Less severe than Wolf rocks and with more raised out of the sea, you get different currents (warm and cold) which gives it's varied environment.
The two dives where excellent but if cold, especially the second.
The there was plenty to see, hundreds Spine sea urchins, bull groupers, bulls eye and wobegone's (a small but harmless shark, that can grow upto 3 meters).
However the best was an Octopus the first I've seen; it was hiding under a coral with a rock door, which even the dive master couldn't open. That along with the dolphins squeaking and whales sinning made with an excellent dive.
Dive 21, Julian Rocks (Cod Hole) Bryon Bay, NSW.
In 220 Bar 7:33
Out 60 Bar 8:11
19 meters
38 Bottom Time
Visibility 5-9
Temp 19c
Weights 6*1.5
The high light of the dive was going thought the cod hole; there is a Code Hole in north Queensland. Plenty of wobbegongs, including one upto 1.5 meters. Travelling through the code was a first, a totally enclosed cavern which has thousands of Bullseye fish. Towards the end I heard squeaking, which would have been dolphins as several passed by. Also I travelled down one of the caverns as hit a mass of bubbles; generated by the currents hitting a rock.
Dive 22, Julian Rocks (Nursery) Bryon Bay, NSW.
In 220 Bar 10:33
Out 80 Bar 11:06
16.5 meters
42 Bottom Time
Visibility 5-10
Temp 18c
Weights 6*1.5
Being my second I had hope it would be warmer, wrong; it may have been I was still cold from the first dive or cooler current where approaching may be both. Round the end of my dive I was getting shivering, but worth it. This time we stayed in the Nursery, with a novice or a gravel pusher. Like the previous dive I found myself dropping like a stone; which is good for descents. Some of the soft coral down, their was fantastic; less hard coral but a variety of animals. Inc an octopus, more wobbegongs and I heard whale-song off in the distance.
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Today was spent In Nimbin a local market and the National park; throught a small tour company. Travelling through Lismore, which has the lowest income of OZ, gets upto 40c in the summer and floods regularly (full of lesbians too). Ninbin is a hippy retreat that took off in the 73 after the Age of Aquarius Festival; the local population fled for better work. To be honest it's dropout central, with a laid back attitude; though it's been getting violent of late. The museum is a better classed as a curiosity shop, with plenty of protest graffiti.
Next was the market, and into the a national park for a Barbie. Then a walk to waterfall, or more accurately a waterless fall. The area is covered in Tea tree's all with a lovely smell, however the best was the Lemon Scented Tea Tree; think sherbet lemons.After that koala spotting, the first couple of spots where barren, eventually we got our wild koala, and even saw a wallaby.
Went body boarding in the morning, which is a small surfboard that you can only lie-on. Fun, even thought the water was freezing even in my wetsuit (19c). The first time that I hit the wave right I closed my eye, waiting to fall off. After five seconds of not wiping out, I decided to lookup; and I was riding just in fount of the wave, cool. The keep was to catch the wave after it's broken and not to paddle only will you ride it; this should help with my surfing later.
The surfing was excellent, though hard work, but I've got to work of my footing and how I rise. Also I find it had to surf went people are infront of you, which will happen in surf school; plus a muppet or two. Have to say I was freezing surfing, so I needed to warmup; it doesn't help I'm used to Queensland weather.
So I'm leaving surfers at two, I could have left earlier however I feel the needed to spend some money. So what to do, well looking through some of the free brochures I noticed a lady holding a gun; in a cocktail dress naturally.
The advert, for the ASA (Australian Shooting Academy), was for 50 rounds of pistol and rifle (25 mm) for only 65 bucks. Not sure what sold me, the price of the lady. Anyhow 20 minutes later, after empted my bullets into an unsuspecting piece target, I exited with my results.
The rifle (25 Meters), were all with two inches and about an inch off target, including a bull-eye; the problem with rifles is you aim travel i.e. left and down for a right-hander. As for the pistol I got all, bar one, on the target with slight left travel. Which could be eliminated with the correct grip; plus you tend to pop-off quicker for the fun of it. Overall a cheapish waste of time; next time I may tryout the magnum; twice as loud and four time the kick-back. After that went I headed to Infinitory; a mirrors and light teamed walk.
Basically you're plunged into pitched-black and lights and mirrors give you the effect of infinity. Kind of light the set design for Black Hole; with plenty of phosphorescent ropes and paint. A good waste of time, only 19n bucks.
By the time that I arrived into Bryon Bay if was 4o/k so no time to get anything done, however I've booked a surf lesion for 2o/k the next day. The night was spent going to a local pub, and watching the rugby.
Arrived in Surfers, with little hope, and i've not been disaponated; it's not that it's a nasty place, just expencive. The center has
loads of shops, and if you wish to buy Guci or Louis Vuitton Hand bags it's paradice.
The beach is lovey, long and the front it packed with hotels/apartments; also their's plenty of things that kids could spend money on. Restaurent's are plentyfull, and i mean hundreds; however there all on the big sell. In fact the whole area if a big sell, like vegas with less americans. It's just their are two many people, most drunk/middle-age/kids; not my atmos.
So despite booking two days i'll leave early and head to Bryon Bay.
Today i've got two thing todo, one dive finders reef, and secondly met the relatives. Ps will right more ast later stage.
Dive Nineteen: Finders Reef, Brisbane, QLD.
In 200 Bar 10:33
Out 50 Bar 11:06
16.5 meters
29 Bottom Time
Visibility 10-15
Temp 22c
Weights 5*1.5
Plenty of turtles 4+, including at least 1.5 meters huge; It’s a cleaning station there. The Coral was excellent, with Elephant ear and Feather stars and plent of hard coral. Also saw a Morton Bay Bug, basically a lobster with out the claws. Which along with a Black Spotted Porcupinefish and Needle Spined Sea Urchin. The Swell was small, however the currents where quite strong, which along the old fin’s making diving hard work.
Dive Twenty: Finders Reef, Brisbane, QLD.
In 200 Bar 12:53
Out 50 Bar 1:49
12.6 meters
48 Bottom Time
Visibility 15-20
Temp 22c
Weights 5*1.5
This time, no Turtles and the current where weak with the swell being strong. However I saw my first Moray, a White Speckled Moray and only a baby. There where plenty of Black saddled Tody’s that where getting territorial over their coral; also a Harlequin Tusk fish and a Silver travally which I had to vertical descend to see. That along with getting attached by a Moon Wrasse prodding me in the side of my head, made for an excellent dive.
Arrived in Brisbane, sydney's nicer; will leave soon.
mmmm, a less-exclusive port douglas; reminds me of the french rivera, in that it's got plent of shops and restaurants a nice exclusive cafe cuture; so if i had company and loads of money i would enjoy Noosa.
YHA is lovely thought, it's an old colonel house; one of the oldest in town.
Getting to Wolfy was pleasant, as it's only on the south end of Rainbow beach; a 4wd ride plus quick boat trip. Also it's first time on a semi inflatable, and their are quick we went to 25 knots; they can goto 35! Naturally i had to back roll into the water, first time for that to. The best part about this dive is it's small group, run by a husband and wife team; with gives you a cozier dive.
The dive wasn't the best for the wildlife, far to mush seaweed floating round; but you do get some awesome pinnacles and vertical gutters and depths of 40 meters. The idea of going to 40 meters is not nice, however I did reach 31, a new personal best. Like most of my dives I’ve used too much oxygen; having said that the second dive was more relaxed and i surfaced with twice the previous bar. All I’ve got to do is not worry so much about my buddy and breath regular; count 4 in and 5 out.
Even thought the wildlife wasn’t that abundant, a ray a guitar/shovel nose shark, I did have a good dive; strong flows and gutters are fun. Having said that I did see a school of dolphins, 50ish, what where swimming off the head.
Dive Seventeen: Wolf Rock QLD.
Max depth 31:
Bottom time 29 CAMLD (Computer Assisted MultiLevel Dive)
Visability 5-6m
In 7:30 230
Out 7:57 40
Weights 4 Wind SSE
Moorish Idols, Trumpet Fish.
Only Excitement when a tank slipped out of it's BCD (Buoyancy Control Device), and i was the only person to notice, not the user or my even more experienced buddy; anyhow i stopped the him and tugged the leader's fin, sorted.
Dive Eightteen:Wolf Rock QLD.
Max depth 28:
Bottom time 29 CAMLD (Computer Assisted MultiLevel Dive)
Visability 5-6m
In 9:40 220
Out 10:10 80
Weights 4 Wind SSE
Moorish Idols, Trumpet Fish, Shouvle-Nose/Guitar Shark/Ray, Eagle Ray Sea Stars, Excellent anoma + fish.
Better dive, practiced my breathing witch improved plus my buddy spent less time looking at here watch; just to get a lower depth; no dramas. When though some gutters with strong flows.
==========================
Kevin Philips
Open Water Instructor
Wolf Rock Dive Centre
Raindow Beach 4581
Queensland
Australia
Tel: 07 5486 8004
Moblie: 0438 740 811
Arrive in time to book my trip to Wolf Rock, and then goto the beach, to try a bit of swimming. Rainbow is a surfer's point and I've never been in such heavy waves; now standing but in heavy waves (let alone swimming) is like a pillow fight with the added benefit of drowning. Rainbow beach is a lovely area, the town is still small and without too many tourists; which gives it a nice feel.
For the last day on Fraser we had a couple of thing to do, the Maheno is the one I’m most interested in. Firstly is Eli creek, a cold place to swim; then the Maheno; a Luxury liner wreaked as she was being taken for scraping. Next the Cathedrals coloured sand (a bit like the Isle of White); then onto India Head, getting stuck on the way.
The thing about Fraser is there no roads, just tracks; the only exception is 75 mile beach (really 54 miles) which is used as a highway, just quicker when the tide is out. After that Lunch, Wanggoolba Creek and then ontoLake Mckenzie, which has beautiful white sand. Finally back to the hostel, where I was glad, mostly to recover and then for a show and clean clothes.
I awoke in reasonable spriest feeling better; so my chance worked.
The trip started after the boat arrived in moon point; the westerly most point of Fraser. We progressed across the island at a crawly (a pace the rarely increased) which gave you an idea of the Dune 6 system; half way across we had a pleasant walk in the